The most difficult part of surfing.
Watching, waiting for a swell that will enable a dive into deep water, avoiding that nasty shock betwixt knee and navel that occurs when first touch of the the water's chill takes one's breath away!
Moffat Beach
© Sunshine Coast Daily Photo - Australia
www.citydailyphoto.org
1 comment
Ah, yes, that first chill. Happens in lake water too.
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